Casual balanced with elegant
By JACKIE OSTROWSKI
Scene Writer
Italian restaurants in the South Bend/Mishawaka area are plentiful, but few can boast a unique atmosphere paired with delicious food. Francesco's is one of a few restaurants that can make such a claim.
Francesco's, located at 1213 N. LincolnWay in West Mishawaka, is a small but bustling eatery. Vines drape the ceilings, and clusters of everything from gourds to baby photos add a distinct flavor to the restaurant. A fast-paced, almost frantic feel fills the restaurant on a typical, post-game Saturday night as waiters dart in and out of the kitchen. Far from the commercialized, pseudo-Italian "ambiance" of chain restaurants like The Olive Garden, Francesco's has a more familiar feel. The restaurant succeeds in providing a more traditional Italian atmosphere.
The menu, though somewhat limited, offers enough of a variety to please most diners. Francesco's appetizers are a perfect way to begin a meal. The garlic bread ($6.50) topped with savory melted cheese delights the palate and is served in large portions. However, the bruschetta ($7.95) leaves something to be desired; its overly salty seasonings do not complement its attractive presentation. Still, Francesco's should be commended on providing plenty of both appetizers to go around.
Each entrée includes either a bowl of pasta e fagioli soup or a garden salad. Though many diners typically order a salad to accompany an Italian meal, they should not overlook Francesco's soup, which provides just the right blend of tangy flavorings. The salad consists of mainly iceberg lettuce and could benefit from a greater variety of greens. Also, the house Italian dressing, while palatable, has no outstanding qualities that set it apart.
While most Italian restaurants serve bread before the appetizers, Francesco's waits until the meals arrive. The freshly baked bread, when dipped in olive oil and Parmesan cheese in authentic Italian style, is delicious. For the most part, the portion sizes are hearty. The eggplant parmigiana ($13.50) and lasagna ($12.00) are exceptionally large. In comparison, the tortellini is served in a much smaller bowl. However, the tortellini is sufficiently filling and is topped with a flavorful red sauce. The eggplant parmigiana certainly satisfies, but like the bruschetta, it is a bit too salty. Overall, the food is of high quality, but certain aspects could be improved.
Francesco's is moderately priced, with entrées ranging from $10 to $18. Naturally, the pricier meals are much larger than the less expensive pasta dishes. The appetizer prices seem steep; they range from about $6 to $8. However, the portions are generous and well prepared. Overall, the food here is well worth the money.
Service throughout the meal is generally quite good, if a bit rushed. The fast-paced atmosphere on a busy night might not lend to a dinner of lingering conversation, but it's just right for students and their families, who tend to make up the majority of the crowd on a post-game evening. Typically, the servers are efficient and quick, but their competence sometimes causes their manners to suffer. In an attempt to swiftly distribute meals, one server interrupted an entire table's conversation to reaffirm who had ordered each meal. Understandably, a large party was present, but waiters should make every effort to avoid disrupting dinner conversation.
Beyond price and service, however, lie certain intangibles that affect the overall feel of the restaurant. Francesco's manages to strike the right balance between casual and elegant; the paper menus and plastic chairs somehow fit with the candlelit tables and arched ceilings. The attractive yet relaxed setup of the restaurant unquestionably adds to its charm and popularity. Overall, Francesco's is a worthwhile visit for some delicious Italian food. Hungry diners can devour the atmosphere at Francesco's as easily as the pasta dishes.
All Scene Stories for Friday, November 5, 1999
