Malabar spices up true Indian cuisine in intimate atmosphere
LAURA KELLY
Associate Scene Editor
For those who despair that the greater Mishawaka area is severely lacking in adventurous cuisine, fear not.
While Friday's and Chili's may dominate the clutter of Grape Road, a closer look into some of South Bend's smaller restaurants can reveal some pleasant surprises.
The Malabar, located at 1640 South Bend Avenue on the corner of Edison and U.S. 23, is one of these hidden gems.
The restaurant is named for the southwestern coastal region of India that is legendary for its beauty and exotic spices, and the Malabar's fare lives up to this namesake.
This is traditional Indian cooking at its best. As is the custom of South India, the Malabar serves different dishes for every day of the week.
Different types of South Indians curries (beef, lamb, chicken or fish) are offered each day, and the blend of ginger, garlic and other spices give the Malabar's curry a flavorful aroma. Another strong dish is the murgh tandoor, a North Indian specialty of chicken marinated overnight in a tangy sauce and baked in a clay oven.
The Malabar is a delight for non-meat eaters as well, offering a vegetarian platter and an egg curry every day of the week. The platter combines the best of the chef's dishes into one complete sampler, a perfect selection for those new to Indian food.
As with any spicy Indian cuisine, drinks are a necessity to cool the palate. The Malabar offers a selection of wines and Indian beers.
Mango juice or the traditional lassi yogurt drink are perfect accompaniments to a hot meal, while a cup of the soothing cardamon tea —brewed in milk with cinnamon, cardamon and anisette — is a relaxing way to finish the night.
To end the filling meal on a sweet note, try the mango sherbet or rice pudding.
Service at the Malabar is friendly and prompt, given that the tiny restaurant totals only one room. The Indian décor and soft guitar music create an authentic atmosphere.
Occasionally the kitchen staff will even come out into the dining room to offer hints on the best way to eat the dishes and make sure their guests are enjoying their meal.
Prices are average for this type of dining, ranging from $10.95 to $14.95 for entrees. This puts the Malabar on par with most of the chains on Grape Road, but it far surpasses these competitors in well-prepared and flavored dishes, attentive service and a warm, authentically Indian atmosphere.
Despite its small size and quiet location, the Malabar's scattering of tables fills up surprisingly quickly on most weekend nights, making it one of the area's best-kept secrets. While the restaurant is not open on Sunday or Monday, try the Malabar during the rest of the week for a spicy Indian treat.
All Scene Stories for Wednesday, April 25, 2001
