Emporium's American fare unimaginative, but still good deal
JACKIE OSTROWSKI
Scene Writer
For predictable yet delicious fare, the Emporium in downtown South Bend pleases the palate. The Emporium offers traditional entrees on a somewhat limited menu. There are no surprises here: the meals stick to a typical American theme.
However, if you and your party aren't looking for particularly adventurous dining but still want a crowd-pleasing restaurant, the Emporium will satisfy.
A spacious, airy feeling fills the two-story dining room, which overlooks the St. Joseph River. The restaurant lacks the almost intimidating elegance of LaSalle Grill or Basil's — its atmosphere is far more casual and laid-back.
Unfortunately, the informal mood carries over to the service, which leaves much to be desired. On a mildly busy Sunday evening, the wait between being seated and being approached by a waitress spanned almost 15 minutes.
The baked brie wheel with French bread ($5.75) is the most unexpected appetizer on the menu. It's a pleasant departure from the usual cheddar potato skins and mozzarella sticks, and a tangy beginning to any meal.
Each entrée comes with either soup or salad, and a choice of potato, fries, or wild rice, plus unlimited loaves of freshly baked honey-wheat bread, served fresh from the oven.
The salad could have been poured from a bag, although the raspberry vinaigrette dressing adds an appetizing touch and makes the wads of iceberg slightly more palatable. Thankfully, the tomato soup of the day redeems the Emporium's first courses and provides a welcome complement to any meal.
For a main course, the filet mignon ($18.95 with shrimp scampi) arrives well cooked, with enough flavor and juice to stand on its own. It's a generous and succulent cut of meat. Shrimp scampi on a bed of wild rice is a bit salty, but still quite good.
The fettuccine Alfredo ($10.45 with grilled chicken) is pleasing, but doesn't excite. However, the grilled chicken is perfectly cooked and a flavorsome companion to the fettuccine. The two dishes are best when ordered together.
A dessert of turtle cheesecake ($2.95), delights, but it's a mere sliver. Also, the chocolate topping can be somewhat overpowering.
The Emporium is a good deal for those who want a semiformal dining atmosphere and good quality food.
For a truly excellent meal and a more daring menu, however, diners should look elsewhere.
All Scene Stories for Wednesday, April 25, 2001
