The new Fiddler's Hearth mixes well with the Irish environemnt and gives the students a tasty and enjoyable place to escape
By JOSE CARLOS DE WIT
Scene Writer
"Aw, gimme some more of that juicy tang!" was the first thought that crossed my mind after I took my first bite of the Pork Tenderloin with Treacle and Mustard sauce at the Fiddler's Hearth, downtown South Bend's new Irish restaurant and pub.
The Fiddler's Hearth opened its doors this past October, establishing itself as South Bend's self-described "local public hous: a gathering place for Celtic artists and the public at large."
Local artists take the stage on Friday and Saturday evenings at the Hearth to perform music and dance from the traditions of the Seven Celtic Nations, ranging from cheerful and fiery jigs to the most beautiful and poignant ballads.
The genuinely Celtic atmosphere and entertainment is complemented by an equally authentic food and drink menu, which offers an assortment of spirits, meals, and, of course, beers, that are as warm and friendly as the music and the fireplace. Which brings us back to the pork tenderloin.
Its soft, juicy medallions of tender pork are glazed in a tart, playful sauce of peppery hot mustard and sweet, thick molasses to create a startlingly exciting flavor combination.
All of the main dishes are served with a side dish and a choice of salad, or hot soup from a selection including bacon and tomato cream and their superb potato soup. Their side dishes are just as tasty.
I ordered the leek with mushrooms, which was excellent; the mushrooms were served in large and meaty slices, while the leeks were surprisingly crisp and flavorful. Other highlights in the menu include the fish and chips, which are superb, and are served with an excellent homemade tartar sauce; the cream cheese and smoked salmon dip, which is reputed to be very good; the Plowman's Plate appetizer; and the Irish Cream cheesecake.
The Plowman's Plate is an assortment of sharp, colorful imported cheeses, which are served with rustic bread, fresh fruits, and several sweet, pungent relishes that create an interesting, tangy contrast with the strong-flavored cheeses.
The Irish Cream cheesecake is a choice that should be approached with caution; it is as thick and sweet and gratifying as a cheesecake could conceivably be a temptation so hedonistic, pleasurable and lascivious that could be felt by some as bordering on morally objectionable.
Readers beware: while the food at the Fiddler's Hearth is, for the most part, exceptional, diners are encouraged to exercise their best discretion in the choice of their meals in order to avoid disappointment.
While some of their plates are unimaginably exiting, others are more reflective of the more, um, bland character that we would tend to expect in food coming from anywhere close to England.
To be fair, their flavor does depend a lot on the diner's expectations. If you expect a burst of flavor from his Celtic meal, a dish like their Irish Stew, made with cabbage, lamb, and root vegetables, will seem as disappointing as a bowl of porridge.
On the other hand, an Irish Stew or a Sheperd Pie can be the perfect meal to eat beside the fireplace along with a large, frothy pint while tapping your left foot to a merry jig. And last, about the pints: the Hearth features a large selection of national and imported brews, both draft and bottled -including a cream ale from Belhaven's, Scotland's oldest brewery; and Tennant's Lager, from a brewery established in 1556. There is also an ample selection of whiskey, scotch, and fine single malts.
The Fiddler's Hearth is a very authentic and traditional Celtic establishment, both in its food and in its atmosphere: the food and beverages are excellent in flavor, while not horribly expensive in price (the beers range from $2.50 to $4 – not exactly Boat Club prices, but then you aren't drinking Coors Lite either…); the atmosphere is warm, fun, and very genuine, very comfortable and cozy, and at the same time good fun.
Note: if you plan on going on a Friday or Saturday evening, be prepared for a crowd; there is also a $10 cover after 8 on those nights, which isn't too steep if you consider that you can apply that sum toward the purchase of food and beverages that evening.
Finally, make sure you bring your ID; entrance is open to all ages, but your age will be verified at the entrance to determine whether you can purchase alcohol or not.
All Scene Stories for Monday, January 20, 2003
