Archaeology of Ireland

The Christian and Medieval Sites on the Aran Islands





There are many Christian and medieval sites in the Aran Islands; it was a religious and monastic center in its time.  Many of these Christian sites are in the form of churches, monastic complexes, cemeteries and slab graves. These churches are similar in construction throughout the three islands, being made out of stone. Different stone crosses have been found at the different sites some with depictions of the crucifixion, intricate designs, or inscriptions. At this point in Ireland’s history, Christianity was spreading throughout, coinciding with the constructions of these churches. Many of them were dedicated to Irish saints that are still venerated today. Pilgrimages to these sites illustrate the continued connection to the history and traditions of Ireland. 


Inishmore:

Enda's Monastery in Killeany
Teaghlach Einne: It was probably first built in the 9th century with additions made during the following centuries (John Feehan et al, 1994: 106). It is a small rectangular church with the eastern gable and north wall being built around the 9th century with a surrounding cemetery that was added on later. Additions were made to the eastern gable and north wall, including the doorway.  The structure is made with very large pieces of stone usually accomplished by putting ‘large flat slabs on edge.” (John Feehan et al, 1994:107)  It is thought that St. Enda, the founder, is buried near the church (John Feehan et al, 1994: 108).  In addition, two grave markers were found with inscriptions reading “Pray for Scandlan” and “The blessing of God on the sould of Sanctan.” These were attributed to someone of higher status (John Feehan et al, 1994:107-108).  Excavations in the 1980s were brief and revealed a grave covered by slab stone that was suspected of being Enda’s grave (John Feehan et al, 1994: 108). Carved fragments associated with the medieval period were found here. Two are incorporated into an ‘altar’ and one with a cross on opposing faces was found during an excavation.  A few pieces of ‘high crosses’ were found here by Conleth Manning during the 1980s digs (John Feehan et al, 1994:108).

                                                                                                                                                                                            

                                                                                                                            Teaghlach Éinne. (Illus. 5.28-29 in John Feehan et al (1994). The Book of Aran. Tír Eolas, Newtownlynch, Co. Galway. 107)




Teampall Bheanáin: This tiny oratory is associated with the 11th century in its creation (John Feehan et al, 1994: 110). It resembles Teaghlach Éinne in construction of huge stone pieces.  It is unusual because of its placement on top of its hill and its north-south orientation.  Most religious structures were on the less fertile soil in the lowlands; this oratory is thought to be exceptionally special because of its prime location (John Feehan et al, 1994, 109).  Because it is so small, it is not thought to hold a congregational but possibly the worshipping place of a hermit (John Feehan et al, 1994:110). A small window facing east corresponds with the tradition of window placements. Excavations have yielded a terrace to the east and a small building to the north dating to around the 17th century (John Feehan et al, 1994:110). This building is attributed to pilgrims as it is thought that this small church was dedicated to St. Benignus (successor of Patrick of Armagh) (John Feehan et al, 1994:110).

<>                                                                                                                                                Teampall Bheanáin. ((1991) A World of Stone-The Aran Islands. Edited by Paul O’Sullivan, pp. 42, O’Brien Press, Dublin.)



Mainistir Chiaráin (Ciaran’s monastery)

<>It is believed that this monastery was founded by Ciaran in the 6th century (John Feehan et al, 1994:112). The small medieval church is well preserved and the surrounding areas have yielded pillar stone with inscriptions.  The church is medieval in style; it is rectangular with a doorway on the west end as well as an ‘arched late Medieval doorway in the north wall” (John Feehan et al, 1994:112) Again, the tradition of a eastward facing window is continued. Slabs near the south-east of the church have crosses inscribed on them. One of these crosses “has a small hole near its top: according to one report this ‘holed-stone’ had curative properties, ‘when women are sick their linen clothes are sometimes pulled through the hole.” (John Feehan et al, 1994:112) It is also suggested that the hole is for the insertion of a stick for a sun-dial (John Feehan et al, 1994:112). Three pillar stones stand to the west, east and north-east of the church with different crosses inscribed on them. It is thought that these are the boundary markers of the holy land (John Feehan et al, 1994:113).  On the west side of the complex, there is a holy well dedicated to Ciaran (John Feehan et al, 1994:113).  In the late 1990s, Dr. Sinéad Ní Ghabhláin excavated the site around the church, including the outbuildings. (Carleton Jones, 2004: 1999)

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<>                                                                                                                                             Mainistir Chiaráin. (Illus. 5.35 in John Feehan et al (1994). The Book of Aran. Tír Eolas, Newtownlynch, Co. Galway. 112)



Seven Churches in Onaght (There are actually only two churches today.)<> <><>

Teampall Bhreacáin (St. Brecan’s church): This church is dated to the 8th century and was originally about the size of Teaglach Éinne, but was added onto throughout the centuries (John Feehan et al, 1994:122). The north and west walls of again, huge pieces of stone, are the earliest. The large stone seems to be consistent with the earlier churches already mentioned.  Additions in the 13th century and 15th/16th centuries added structures including a window, an internal wall, doorway, and another window (John Feehan et al, 1994:122).  An inscription within the church on the western wall writes “Say a prayer for two canons.” (John Feehan et al, 1994:122) This church was dedicated to St. Brecan. This church and Teampall A’Phoill were prized as one of the best examples of “how important the combination of church, well, saint’s bed, holy graves, high crosses and cross-slabs may have been for the devotions of both the ecclesiastical community and the visiting pilgrim.” (John Feehan et al, 1993:119)



<>                                                       Reconstruction of Teampall Bhreacáin. (Illus.5.47 in John Feehan et al (1994). The Book of Aran. Tír Eolas, Newtownlynch, Co. Galway. 120-121)

Teampall A’Phoill (The Church of the Hollow): This is a 15th or 16th century church within the “Seven Churches of Onaght” (John Feehan et al, 1994:123). The church is again rectangular in shape with a window facing east, and a door and arch facing north.  In addition, there are also some outbuildings dated to the 16th century at the latest which were thought to be the homes of those affiliated with the church or as extra quarters for traveling pilgrims (John Feehan et al, 1994:123).  Some graves thought to hold St. Brecan’s body are also present in the enclosure: the grave marker for St. Brecan “bears a Greek cross within a double circle and the remains of an incription which reads SCI BRECANI….the grave or slab of St. Brecan.” (John Feehan et al, 1993:124)  Four slab crosses were found to the western side of the church. One of them is inscribed “VII ROMANI” meaning the seven Romans.  It has been suggested that this is the grave of some roman pilgrims, a possible dedicatory cross, or a reference to the Seven Sleepers of Ephesus who fell asleep for many centuries and thus evaded the Christain persecution by Emperor Decius. In addition to the four slab crosses, there were also pieces of three high crosses found. One depicts a crucifixion scene, one might have been “one of the most imposing of the Aran high crosses” with Christ surrounded by two individuals, another with just fragments has an “asymmetrically ringed head and the greater part of the exposed face is ornamented with panels of interlaced knotwork and fret patterns” (John Feehan et al, 1994:125-127).These crosses were thought to be placed in the 12th century, possibly as the markers of the religious site. (John Feehan et al, 1994:127) Several holy wells are also found at the site: Tobar an Spioraid Naoimh, dedicated to the Holy Spirit, Tobar Bhreacáin dedicated to St. Brecan and another well on the northern part of the site (John Feehan et al, 1994:125)



<>                                                                                              Teampall A’Phoill (Illus.5.49 in John Feehan et al (1994). The Book of Aran. Tír Eolas, Newtownlynch, Co. Galway. 123)

Teampall an Ceathrar Alainn “The Church of the Four Comely Saints”

This site lies between the churches at Killeany and Onaght, and is dedicated to Fursey, Brendan, Conall and Bearchán. It is not clear why this small rectangular church dating to the 15th century is named after these particular saints (John Feehan et al, 1994:115). The church is made a ‘carefully selected limestone blocks” (John Feehan et al, 1993:115) suggesting time and energy was put into this structure to venerate these four saints. To the east of the church there are five grave slabs thought to be those of the saints (John Feehan et al, 1994:115).  In Ireland at this time, it was commonly thought that if one was ill, if they slept in the ‘bed’ of a saint, then they would be cured (John Feehan et al, 1994:115).  In addition to the saint’s bed, there is also a holy well to the south-east of the church named Tobar an Ceathrar Álainn. It has even recently been the resting place of tokens, medallions and rosaries (John Feehan et al, 1994:116). Another holy well to the north-east side of the church also exists. In addition, it is thought that some plain pillar stones, small slabs and mounds around the perimeters of the church, mark the church’s boundaries (John Feehan et al, 1994:116).  



<>                                                                                            Teampall an Ceathrar Alain. (Illus.5.39 in John Feehan et al (1994). The Book of Aran. Tír Eolas, Newtownlynch, Co. Galway. 115)

                                                                         

Inis Meain:

Teampall Cheannannach

This is the main site on Inish Meáin and consists of a church enclosed by a wall and surrounding grave slabs dated to the 18th, 19th and 20th century (John Feehan et al, 1994:128-129). The church is of larger limestone pieces with a window facing east and a doorway facing west.  A slab shrine with a triangular shape was thought to previously exist here but is not well preserved. It was thought to hold the bones of the church’s founder (John Feehan et al, 1994:129).  The founder, Cheannannach is not well known and it is suspected that he might be the son of a king, or possibly Gregory the Fairheaded, of whom the channel between Inis Meáin and Inis Mór is named (John Feehan et al, 1994:129).  In addition, 30 meters to the north-west of the church there is a holy well, Tobar Cheannannach, similar to that at Ciaran’s Monastery in Inishmore (John Feehan et al, 1994:129).


<>                                                                                             Teampall Cheannannach (Illus.5.57 in John Feehan et al (1994). The Book of Aran. Tír Eolas, Newtownlynch, Co. Galway. 128)

Inis Oírr:


Teampall Chaomháin “The Church of St. Cavan

This church is located on Inis Oírr and is similar in style to Teaghlach Éinne surrounded by the graveyard. Both Teampall Chaomháin and Teaghlach Éinne are in danger of being covered by the encroaching sand. This church was thought to have originally been on a ‘low flat knoll, [but] has been inundated by blown sand and surrounded by an accumulation of graves” (John Feehan et al, 1993:130)  Teampall Chaomháin is dedicated to St. Cavan and the oratory is dated the 11th century with additions a few centuries later (chancel and chancel arch) (John Feehan et al, 1994:129-130). It is rectangular structure with a door to the west and south and an attached structure thought to be the sacristy.  St. Cavan’s ‘bed’ is here to the north-east of the church.  The slab that covers the saint’s grave is thought to be the best example throughout the Aran Islands (John Feehan et al, 1994:132). Again, as in previous sites with saint’s beds, the sick and inflicted would come to lie atop the grave to hopefully be cured of their ailments.  The cross-inscribed slab has a Latin cross on the top decorated with different motifs (John Feehan et al, 1994:132).

 

<>                                                                                              Teampall Chaomháin (Illus.5.60 in John Feehan et al (1994). The Book of Aran. Tír Eolas, Newtownlynch, Co. Galway. 131)


Cill Ghobnait

This church is dedicated to St. Gobnait of Ballyvourney, who is traditionally thought to be the patron saint of beekeepers (John Feehan et al, 1994:129). Her feast day is still celebrated on February 11th. The church is thought to be from the 11th century and is small and rectangular with a doorway facing west and a window facing east (John Feehan et al, 1994:130). The church is surrounded by stone-built graves with two bullaun stones close by. A small ‘clochan’ is situated to the west of the church which is thought to be a hermit’s small sanctuary (John Feehan et al, 1994:13). A ‘clochan’ is a beehive-shaped structure of which the function is not completely known. Some suggest that they are living quarters, places to milk cows, or possibly burial mounds. (John Feehan et al, 1994:103-104) Also, if you go another ¾ of a mile to the south-west you will run into another holy well, Tobar Éinne, dedicated to St. Enda (John Feehan et al, 1994:130).

 

                                                                                                                             Cill Ghobnait (Illus.5.58 in John Feehan et al (1994). The Book of Aran. Tír Eolas, Newtownlynch, Co. Galway. 129)


 



















References

(1991) A World of Stone-The Aran Islands. Edited by Paul O’Sullivan, O’Brien Press, Dublin.

Cruise in Connexion with the Munster Meeting. The Journal of the Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland. 27, 265-272

<>John Feehan et al (1994). The Book of Aran. Tír Eolas, Newtownlynch, Co. Galway.106-132.  <>

Harbison, Peter (1992). Guide to National and Historic Monuments of Ireland. Gill and Macmillan Ltd, Dublin

Jones, Carleton (2004) The Burren and the Aran Islands: Exploring the Archaeology. Collins Press, Doughcloyne

R.A.S Macalister (1928) The Archaeology of Ireland. Methuen & Co., London. 245-246. <>
 

T. H. Mason (1938) The Antiquarian Remains of Inisheer, Aran, Co.
Galway. The Journal of the Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland. 68, 196-199.  <>

Database of Irish Excavation Reports. www.excavations.ie Maintained by HostIreland.


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