The route known as the Camino de Santiago is neither a road nor a highway. It's a walkway trod
by travelers of all kinds for more than 2,000 years. Christians have traveled it for nearly 1,300
years.
Much of the route described in a 900-year old guidebook is still in use today. Some of it
wends its way over the remains of pavement laid down by the Romans two millennia ago. It's a
route that writer James Michener -- no stranger to world travel -- calls "the finest journey in
Spain, and one of two or three in the world." He did it three times and mentions passing "through
landscapes of exquisite beauty." The European Union has designated it a European Heritage
Route.
Christians are attracted to this remote corner of Europe because of a legend that Santiago
de Compostela is the burial place of the apostle James the Greater. As such, it ranks along with
Rome and Jerusalem as one of Christendom's great pilgrim destinations.
The Camino de Santiago has its origins in pre-Christian times when people of the
Celtic/Iberian tribes made their way from the interior to land's end on the Atlantic coast of
Galicia. For them, watching the sun set over the endless waters was a spiritual experience. As
part of their conquest of Europe, the Romans occupied Iberia by 200 B.C. They built
infrastructure, including a road from Bordeaux in modern France to Astorga in northwest Spain,
to mine the area's gold and silver. Some of the original road remains on today's Camino.
When the apostles spread out across the known world to preach the Christian gospel,
tradition has it that James the Greater came to Galicia. On returning to Palestine he was
beheaded by Herod, becoming the first apostolic martyr. A legend that has persisted for 2,000
years claims that his followers took his body back to Galicia, where it was buried inland.
By the 12th and 13th centuries, half a million pilgrims made their way to and across
northern Spain and back each year. Local kings and clergy built hospitals, hostels, roads and
bridges to accommodate them. The Knights Templar patrolled the Camino, providing protection,
places of hospitality, healing and worship, as well as a banking system that became one source
of their fabled wealth.
Among the historical figures who made the pilgrimage to Santiago are Charlemagne,
Roldan, Francis of Assisi, Dante Alighieri and Rodrigo Diaz (El Cid, Spain's great epic hero). In The Canterbury Tales, Chaucer tells us that the Wife of Bath had been to Santiago. Not all were
enamored of it, however. In the 1500s, Sir Francis Drake, who did more than his share of
harassing the imperial Spanish, referred to Santiago as "that center of pernicious superstition."
A combination of the Protestant Reformation, the Enlightenment and European wars
gradually suppressed the Camino. In the 17th century Louis XIV of France forbade his subjects
from going to Santiago in order to stop trade with Spain. The Camino fell into disfavor but was
never abandoned.
Now, after centuries of slumber, the Camino is alive with upward of 100,000 pilgrims --
and growing -- yearly.
(April 2008)
